Lows and Highs

This morning Tanya and I went to register my passport/visa in a little office across the street from the Oktyaberskaya Hotel. This registration is a bit of red tape inflicted on tourists, no doubt a leftover from Soviet times. It is not a problem for tourists who stay in hotels because the hotels take care of it. But since I am staying in a private residence I have to register my visa myself. I checked my notes from last year so I knew that this registration cost 650 roubles. So I was surprised when the girl in the office said it cost 1,000 roubles. I said that last year it cost 650 roubles. She said that there was a penalty of 350 roubles because I was late in coming to the office. By law we are to register within three days of arrival. Tanya helped me explain that we arrived Wednesday and came to the office Saturday and found it closed. The girl was unrelenting. I had to pay the penalty. So I paid the 1,000 roubles and will be able to pick up my registration document tomorrow. I was not feeling very positive when we left that office.
After taking a quick look in the big Oktyaberskaya Hotel which seemed rather sterile and touristy we walked up the street where I wanted to see if I could find a place that is not on any map or guidebook or map. I knew of it from a walking tour I took in 2003. I spotted an entry way under an arch and we followed it to a remote back alley where I found what I was looking for – a sign written on one wall in Russian that said “John Lennon Street”. Around the corner was a door with a sign on it indicating it was The Temple of Love, Peace and Music in the name of John Lennon and the Beatles. On my previous visit I had not been inside, but I was curious about what it was like so I pressed on a button for the door bell. A gruff looking man with a full beard opened the door half way and in Russian basically said, “What do you want?” I said, “I’m and American, my wife is Russian and we love the Beatles and were interested to look inside.” He invited us in. We told him we had been at the Paul McCartney concert in St. Petersburg last year and really loved the Beatles. He showed us around a fantastic room full of Beatles memorabilia – photos of all kinds of the Beatles even covering the ceiling, sculptures, records, and in the center a fantasy model of a shrine to the Beatles. Of course Beatles music was playing in the background. At one point he asked me who was singing a song. I correctly answered George Harrison. The keeper of this amazing place introduced himself as Kolya Vasin. He gave us his calling card. Kolya told us he was born in 1945. He has devoted his life to the Beatles. One could say he is the unofficial high priest of the Beatles, certainly their most devoted fan. He allowed us to take many photos including one of his first Beatles record made on an x-ray. In Russia they call it “Music on the bones”. During the time when the Beatles’ music was forbidden in the Soviet Union, this was the only way many people could own their music! Tanya remembers listing to the Beatles in this way. Kolya supports himself by selling a few souvenirs including ceramic cups he makes himself. I bought a few T-shirts; he gave us three pins and a spoon; on the bowl of the spoon is stamped a heart and the words “All you need is love.” Kolya said, “God bless you” and seemed happy for our visit.
We continued on our way. Tanya wanted to find the new location of the youth center where she was formerly a director. The weather was sunny but cool with a little breeze – perfect weather for walking through this most beautiful, fascinating, and perplexing city. After a few blocks Tanya said that a former close colleague of hers, Tamara lived in the apartments across the street. Tanya started yelling out, “Tamara! Tamara!”. I thought she was out of her mind to think that Tamara might be home or hear her. But to my great surprise Tamara appeared at her window on the second floor and was clearly delighted to see Tanya. Tamara welcomed us to her modest apartment. We sat in her kitchen and looked at some family photos while she, with typical Russian hospitality, made sliced some white bread on which she smeared black caviar and poured hot water for instant coffee. She said there is less happiness in Russia now and complained about the poor pay and high prices. After our visit she took us a few blocks away to the Kindergarten where she is the director. It’s like a pre-school for children from 3 to 6 years old. Tamara showed us the many rooms and wonderful paintings and decorations for the and by the children. It was clear that she really loved her work with the children.
From the kindergarten we went on to the new location of the youth center where Irena, the director, showed off the newly renovated building which includes a place for motocross bikes and a weightlifting room complete with a book in Russian featuring Arnold Schwartzeneger.
After lunch in our apartment, Svyatoslav joined us for an excursion to St. Isaac’s Cathedral. We arrived at 6:01 p.m. to discover the ticket window closed at 6:00. But then we found out that it opened again at 7:00 p.m. We spent an hour walking around the Bronze Horseman and then resting on the grass. After buying our tickets we walked up the 262 steps to the colonnade for a spectacular view of the city on this very clear breezy day. Another high for us in this wonderful rollercoster.