Yesterday, with the assistance of Svyatoslav, I was able to find and buy a new video camera. After looking at several places in the city, I bought a Sony digital video camera from an electronics and appliance shop just a three-minute walk from the apartment. I was surprised how much the technology of video cameras has improved since I bought my old one perhaps ten years ago. I was also glad to see that the prices have come down so the video camera I bought yesterday cost only a little more than half of what I remember paying for my old one.
The two special events that I wanted to video were the PCOM Choir concert and the singing of Masha and Katya, the eighteen-year old twins. Regretfully I was not able to do the former, but thankfully I was able to do the latter.
As we had arranged, we met Masha and Katya at the exit from the Nevsky Prospekt metro station. They looked spectacular in stylish black and white outfits. As one of the women on the PCOM Choir concert tour said to me, “The women in St. Petersburg really dress up.” Svyatoslav, Tanya, and I walked with the girls to the Moika Canal and then along the canal to a restaurant called NEP just around the corner from the Hermitage and just across the canal from where the famous Russian poet, Alexander Pushkin lived in his last apartment. Named after the New Economic Policy of Lenin – the restaurant is very new and cozy.
The choir group members met us at the restaurant. Elizabeth Geer, the tour director, had officially invited us all to be their guests at dinner. They were tired from a long day of touring which included a morning trip to the former Tsar’s Village outside the city and then an afternoon in the Hermitage, but I was impressed with their stamina. We enjoyed a very good dinner. After dinner I introduced the girls who sang about five songs including “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” and “My Heart Goes On”. The choir members loved the girls’ little concert. I felt very proud of Masha and Katya and grateful for them giving up some of their study time to come and sing. I was very happy that I was able to tape their performance.
Quite a few of the choir members took our picture. Vim, their tour guide, who is from Holland and who doesn’t speak Russian, spoke German with Masha. As the choir was getting ready to leave the restaurant, some musicians were preparing their instruments – a guitar, a base and a saxophone. John Elg asked me to ask them what kind of music they played. Jazz. John plays in a jazz group back home so I think he was pretty excited to see this little group. I interpreted for John as he asked if he could play the guitar and they agreed. So John sat down and played guitar and the base player and saxophone player joined in for some impromptu jazz. I also taped that performance.
After saying our final farewells to the choir members, we walked the girls back to the metro station. They will come to Borovichi on July 6th after their last final exam – in English language. Since the evening was so beautiful, we decided to walk through the city for another hour. It was about 9:00 p.m. and still very sunny. Thousands of people were strolling or eating in numerous restaurants including many outside places. What a wonderful evening!
After we returned to our apartment, Svyatoslav attached my video camera to their TV and we all were able to watch what I had taped. So this was a very satisfying day.
Thursday, June 30, 2005
Wednesday, June 29, 2005
"Don't steam"!
Yesterday Svyatoslav taught me a new phrase in current Russian slang which translates literally as “Don’t steam” and basically means “Don’t worry", "Don’t think about it”. It is a useful phrase for yesterday’s adventures.
It was raining lightly when I showed up just before 9:00 a.m. to meet the members of the PCOM choir at their hotel to find out about their program. Several of the choir members were already in the street in front of the hotel so I greeted them. I told them that five minutes away down the street was an interesting sort of museum/shrine for the Beatles. About five or six of the choir members wanted to go see the Temple of Love and Peace right then before going to their tour bus at 10:00. We walked there together, and to my surprise Kolya was there and greeted us companions warmly. They really enjoyed the place and several people bought t-shirts. We invited Kolya to the concert, but I couldn’t remember the name of the street where the church is.
On their bus at 10:00 a.m. I was disappointed to find out that they needed to be back at the hotel at 3:30 p.m. rather than 4:00 and that they might not return from their morning bus excursion until after 2:00 p.m. giving us very little time for my planned walking tour. Nevertheless 25 people raised their hands to indicate they wanted to go on the walk.
Before 2:00 p.m. I was back at the hotel with Tanya and Svyatoslav. The weather had cleared up by then and was sunny and cool. The bus arrived about 2:10 and sixteen of the choir members including director John Elg and his wife Gretchen decided to walk with me. We gave each of them two subway tokens and took the metro one stop to Vladimirskaya where we first went to the Dostoevsky apartment museum. I handed my video camera to Tanya who filmed my as gave the group a three minute biography of Dostoevsky and explaining that the apartment was where he wrote The Brothers Kamaramazov and where he died. Inside Tanya and I had to plead with the administrator to let our group in and go through the museum in 10 minutes because we had very limited time. The administrator reluctantly gave her permission and we hustled everyone in and upstairs for a very brief tour of the museum. Several people said they really liked seeing where Dostoevsky lived even if our time there was very brief.
Leaving the museum we went across the street to the Kuzhnechny Market where the group marveled at the beautiful displays of food. One woman even bought some bing cherries and several people sampled honey. Next we went across the street in another direction and entered the big, old Vladimir Church. I think for most of the group it was the first time many of them had been inside an orthodox church. They noted that there are now pews. We had just enough time to light a few candles before hurrying on to meet our time deadline. After pausing outside for a few photos we got the group back in the metro station and after one stop back to their hotel at about 3:45 p.m. So we did this whirlwind tour in about an hour and a half – perhaps a world record. We said farewell to the choir members who rushed into their hotel to prepare for their first concert.
The tour helped me decide that I don’t have the temperament be a tour guide. It is very stressful work requiring the firmness of a drill sergeant and the patience of Job. I would love to show off St. Petersburg to three or four people at a time, but a larger group is too much responsibility.
As we got off the metro train at our station I checked my little backpack and noticed to my horror that my video camera was missing. I could hardly believe my eyes. I thought I had been very careful about it. Perhaps I was distracted when I was guiding the group. We even went all the way back to the museum to see if I had left it there. I hadn’t. Of course we were all very upset about this loss and I felt depressed angry with myself for my lack of diligence.
When we later talked to choir members at the church before their concert someone told me that one of the men on the walk had his pockets picked and lost credit cards. Russia must have some of the most skilled pick pockets in the world!
The concert was marvelous. The acoustics in the church were just right to amplify the beauty of the choral singing. Unfortunately the concert was sparsely attended with no more than 40 people present in a church that can seat probably nearly 1,000 if both balconies are used. However I was very happy to see Kolya Vasin arrive whom I had called and given the street address for the church. He sat with us and at one point during the concert he said to us (in Russian) “Not bad, but the Beatles are better”. The concert was really inspiring and brought back good memories of serving at PCOM. As I told John later, it made me want to get in the pulpit and preach. I especially liked the Rachmaninoff “Ave Maria” sung in Russian.
After the concert I introduced Kolya to John Elg and we sat together for tea and cookies in the church basement. Kolya recommended to John that they include “All You Need Is Love” in their repertoire and mentioned that Elvis Presley had sung Amazing Grace beautifully.
The choir returned to their hotel where we met a few of them in the lobby. Gretchen Elg had asked about climbing up to the St. Isaac’s Cathedral Colonnade and I told her it was possible. Eight choir members joined Tanya and I for a stroll down Nevsky Prospect enjoying the late evening lightness as we made our way to St. Isaac’s where we climbed the spiral staircase to the Colannade for another spectacular view of the city, this time with clouds in the sky and a beautiful sunset in the making. We barely made it back to the metro before it closes at midnight. After getting the choir members back to their hotel, Tanya and I made our way home. I drank a beer and more cognac than is prudent, but slept about 8 hours last night (for the first time without taking a sleeping pill).
In my journal I recorded the words of Thomas Jefferson: “Travel can made one wiser but less happy.” He was an experienced traveler and he was right.
It was raining lightly when I showed up just before 9:00 a.m. to meet the members of the PCOM choir at their hotel to find out about their program. Several of the choir members were already in the street in front of the hotel so I greeted them. I told them that five minutes away down the street was an interesting sort of museum/shrine for the Beatles. About five or six of the choir members wanted to go see the Temple of Love and Peace right then before going to their tour bus at 10:00. We walked there together, and to my surprise Kolya was there and greeted us companions warmly. They really enjoyed the place and several people bought t-shirts. We invited Kolya to the concert, but I couldn’t remember the name of the street where the church is.
On their bus at 10:00 a.m. I was disappointed to find out that they needed to be back at the hotel at 3:30 p.m. rather than 4:00 and that they might not return from their morning bus excursion until after 2:00 p.m. giving us very little time for my planned walking tour. Nevertheless 25 people raised their hands to indicate they wanted to go on the walk.
Before 2:00 p.m. I was back at the hotel with Tanya and Svyatoslav. The weather had cleared up by then and was sunny and cool. The bus arrived about 2:10 and sixteen of the choir members including director John Elg and his wife Gretchen decided to walk with me. We gave each of them two subway tokens and took the metro one stop to Vladimirskaya where we first went to the Dostoevsky apartment museum. I handed my video camera to Tanya who filmed my as gave the group a three minute biography of Dostoevsky and explaining that the apartment was where he wrote The Brothers Kamaramazov and where he died. Inside Tanya and I had to plead with the administrator to let our group in and go through the museum in 10 minutes because we had very limited time. The administrator reluctantly gave her permission and we hustled everyone in and upstairs for a very brief tour of the museum. Several people said they really liked seeing where Dostoevsky lived even if our time there was very brief.
Leaving the museum we went across the street to the Kuzhnechny Market where the group marveled at the beautiful displays of food. One woman even bought some bing cherries and several people sampled honey. Next we went across the street in another direction and entered the big, old Vladimir Church. I think for most of the group it was the first time many of them had been inside an orthodox church. They noted that there are now pews. We had just enough time to light a few candles before hurrying on to meet our time deadline. After pausing outside for a few photos we got the group back in the metro station and after one stop back to their hotel at about 3:45 p.m. So we did this whirlwind tour in about an hour and a half – perhaps a world record. We said farewell to the choir members who rushed into their hotel to prepare for their first concert.
The tour helped me decide that I don’t have the temperament be a tour guide. It is very stressful work requiring the firmness of a drill sergeant and the patience of Job. I would love to show off St. Petersburg to three or four people at a time, but a larger group is too much responsibility.
As we got off the metro train at our station I checked my little backpack and noticed to my horror that my video camera was missing. I could hardly believe my eyes. I thought I had been very careful about it. Perhaps I was distracted when I was guiding the group. We even went all the way back to the museum to see if I had left it there. I hadn’t. Of course we were all very upset about this loss and I felt depressed angry with myself for my lack of diligence.
When we later talked to choir members at the church before their concert someone told me that one of the men on the walk had his pockets picked and lost credit cards. Russia must have some of the most skilled pick pockets in the world!
The concert was marvelous. The acoustics in the church were just right to amplify the beauty of the choral singing. Unfortunately the concert was sparsely attended with no more than 40 people present in a church that can seat probably nearly 1,000 if both balconies are used. However I was very happy to see Kolya Vasin arrive whom I had called and given the street address for the church. He sat with us and at one point during the concert he said to us (in Russian) “Not bad, but the Beatles are better”. The concert was really inspiring and brought back good memories of serving at PCOM. As I told John later, it made me want to get in the pulpit and preach. I especially liked the Rachmaninoff “Ave Maria” sung in Russian.
After the concert I introduced Kolya to John Elg and we sat together for tea and cookies in the church basement. Kolya recommended to John that they include “All You Need Is Love” in their repertoire and mentioned that Elvis Presley had sung Amazing Grace beautifully.
The choir returned to their hotel where we met a few of them in the lobby. Gretchen Elg had asked about climbing up to the St. Isaac’s Cathedral Colonnade and I told her it was possible. Eight choir members joined Tanya and I for a stroll down Nevsky Prospect enjoying the late evening lightness as we made our way to St. Isaac’s where we climbed the spiral staircase to the Colannade for another spectacular view of the city, this time with clouds in the sky and a beautiful sunset in the making. We barely made it back to the metro before it closes at midnight. After getting the choir members back to their hotel, Tanya and I made our way home. I drank a beer and more cognac than is prudent, but slept about 8 hours last night (for the first time without taking a sleeping pill).
In my journal I recorded the words of Thomas Jefferson: “Travel can made one wiser but less happy.” He was an experienced traveler and he was right.
Monday, June 27, 2005
Lows and Highs
This morning Tanya and I went to register my passport/visa in a little office across the street from the Oktyaberskaya Hotel. This registration is a bit of red tape inflicted on tourists, no doubt a leftover from Soviet times. It is not a problem for tourists who stay in hotels because the hotels take care of it. But since I am staying in a private residence I have to register my visa myself. I checked my notes from last year so I knew that this registration cost 650 roubles. So I was surprised when the girl in the office said it cost 1,000 roubles. I said that last year it cost 650 roubles. She said that there was a penalty of 350 roubles because I was late in coming to the office. By law we are to register within three days of arrival. Tanya helped me explain that we arrived Wednesday and came to the office Saturday and found it closed. The girl was unrelenting. I had to pay the penalty. So I paid the 1,000 roubles and will be able to pick up my registration document tomorrow. I was not feeling very positive when we left that office.
After taking a quick look in the big Oktyaberskaya Hotel which seemed rather sterile and touristy we walked up the street where I wanted to see if I could find a place that is not on any map or guidebook or map. I knew of it from a walking tour I took in 2003. I spotted an entry way under an arch and we followed it to a remote back alley where I found what I was looking for – a sign written on one wall in Russian that said “John Lennon Street”. Around the corner was a door with a sign on it indicating it was The Temple of Love, Peace and Music in the name of John Lennon and the Beatles. On my previous visit I had not been inside, but I was curious about what it was like so I pressed on a button for the door bell. A gruff looking man with a full beard opened the door half way and in Russian basically said, “What do you want?” I said, “I’m and American, my wife is Russian and we love the Beatles and were interested to look inside.” He invited us in. We told him we had been at the Paul McCartney concert in St. Petersburg last year and really loved the Beatles. He showed us around a fantastic room full of Beatles memorabilia – photos of all kinds of the Beatles even covering the ceiling, sculptures, records, and in the center a fantasy model of a shrine to the Beatles. Of course Beatles music was playing in the background. At one point he asked me who was singing a song. I correctly answered George Harrison. The keeper of this amazing place introduced himself as Kolya Vasin. He gave us his calling card. Kolya told us he was born in 1945. He has devoted his life to the Beatles. One could say he is the unofficial high priest of the Beatles, certainly their most devoted fan. He allowed us to take many photos including one of his first Beatles record made on an x-ray. In Russia they call it “Music on the bones”. During the time when the Beatles’ music was forbidden in the Soviet Union, this was the only way many people could own their music! Tanya remembers listing to the Beatles in this way. Kolya supports himself by selling a few souvenirs including ceramic cups he makes himself. I bought a few T-shirts; he gave us three pins and a spoon; on the bowl of the spoon is stamped a heart and the words “All you need is love.” Kolya said, “God bless you” and seemed happy for our visit.
We continued on our way. Tanya wanted to find the new location of the youth center where she was formerly a director. The weather was sunny but cool with a little breeze – perfect weather for walking through this most beautiful, fascinating, and perplexing city. After a few blocks Tanya said that a former close colleague of hers, Tamara lived in the apartments across the street. Tanya started yelling out, “Tamara! Tamara!”. I thought she was out of her mind to think that Tamara might be home or hear her. But to my great surprise Tamara appeared at her window on the second floor and was clearly delighted to see Tanya. Tamara welcomed us to her modest apartment. We sat in her kitchen and looked at some family photos while she, with typical Russian hospitality, made sliced some white bread on which she smeared black caviar and poured hot water for instant coffee. She said there is less happiness in Russia now and complained about the poor pay and high prices. After our visit she took us a few blocks away to the Kindergarten where she is the director. It’s like a pre-school for children from 3 to 6 years old. Tamara showed us the many rooms and wonderful paintings and decorations for the and by the children. It was clear that she really loved her work with the children.
From the kindergarten we went on to the new location of the youth center where Irena, the director, showed off the newly renovated building which includes a place for motocross bikes and a weightlifting room complete with a book in Russian featuring Arnold Schwartzeneger.
After lunch in our apartment, Svyatoslav joined us for an excursion to St. Isaac’s Cathedral. We arrived at 6:01 p.m. to discover the ticket window closed at 6:00. But then we found out that it opened again at 7:00 p.m. We spent an hour walking around the Bronze Horseman and then resting on the grass. After buying our tickets we walked up the 262 steps to the colonnade for a spectacular view of the city on this very clear breezy day. Another high for us in this wonderful rollercoster.
After taking a quick look in the big Oktyaberskaya Hotel which seemed rather sterile and touristy we walked up the street where I wanted to see if I could find a place that is not on any map or guidebook or map. I knew of it from a walking tour I took in 2003. I spotted an entry way under an arch and we followed it to a remote back alley where I found what I was looking for – a sign written on one wall in Russian that said “John Lennon Street”. Around the corner was a door with a sign on it indicating it was The Temple of Love, Peace and Music in the name of John Lennon and the Beatles. On my previous visit I had not been inside, but I was curious about what it was like so I pressed on a button for the door bell. A gruff looking man with a full beard opened the door half way and in Russian basically said, “What do you want?” I said, “I’m and American, my wife is Russian and we love the Beatles and were interested to look inside.” He invited us in. We told him we had been at the Paul McCartney concert in St. Petersburg last year and really loved the Beatles. He showed us around a fantastic room full of Beatles memorabilia – photos of all kinds of the Beatles even covering the ceiling, sculptures, records, and in the center a fantasy model of a shrine to the Beatles. Of course Beatles music was playing in the background. At one point he asked me who was singing a song. I correctly answered George Harrison. The keeper of this amazing place introduced himself as Kolya Vasin. He gave us his calling card. Kolya told us he was born in 1945. He has devoted his life to the Beatles. One could say he is the unofficial high priest of the Beatles, certainly their most devoted fan. He allowed us to take many photos including one of his first Beatles record made on an x-ray. In Russia they call it “Music on the bones”. During the time when the Beatles’ music was forbidden in the Soviet Union, this was the only way many people could own their music! Tanya remembers listing to the Beatles in this way. Kolya supports himself by selling a few souvenirs including ceramic cups he makes himself. I bought a few T-shirts; he gave us three pins and a spoon; on the bowl of the spoon is stamped a heart and the words “All you need is love.” Kolya said, “God bless you” and seemed happy for our visit.
We continued on our way. Tanya wanted to find the new location of the youth center where she was formerly a director. The weather was sunny but cool with a little breeze – perfect weather for walking through this most beautiful, fascinating, and perplexing city. After a few blocks Tanya said that a former close colleague of hers, Tamara lived in the apartments across the street. Tanya started yelling out, “Tamara! Tamara!”. I thought she was out of her mind to think that Tamara might be home or hear her. But to my great surprise Tamara appeared at her window on the second floor and was clearly delighted to see Tanya. Tamara welcomed us to her modest apartment. We sat in her kitchen and looked at some family photos while she, with typical Russian hospitality, made sliced some white bread on which she smeared black caviar and poured hot water for instant coffee. She said there is less happiness in Russia now and complained about the poor pay and high prices. After our visit she took us a few blocks away to the Kindergarten where she is the director. It’s like a pre-school for children from 3 to 6 years old. Tamara showed us the many rooms and wonderful paintings and decorations for the and by the children. It was clear that she really loved her work with the children.
From the kindergarten we went on to the new location of the youth center where Irena, the director, showed off the newly renovated building which includes a place for motocross bikes and a weightlifting room complete with a book in Russian featuring Arnold Schwartzeneger.
After lunch in our apartment, Svyatoslav joined us for an excursion to St. Isaac’s Cathedral. We arrived at 6:01 p.m. to discover the ticket window closed at 6:00. But then we found out that it opened again at 7:00 p.m. We spent an hour walking around the Bronze Horseman and then resting on the grass. After buying our tickets we walked up the 262 steps to the colonnade for a spectacular view of the city on this very clear breezy day. Another high for us in this wonderful rollercoster.
Sunday, June 26, 2005
Impressions
Travel is a very intensive experience. I’m impacted with more impressions here in a day than I have in a month at home. Yesterday we took advantage of the very warm sunny weather to get out and about in the city. Our first stop was the Moscow Railway Station where I bought round trip tickets to the village of Borovichi where I plan to visit from July 3rd to 7th. The trip each way takes about five hours. I paid 500 for these tickets (about $18).
Next we tried to register my passport but the office was closed. Then we scouted out a little excursion I plan for a few of the more adventurous members of the choir of the Presbyterian Church of the Master (hereafter PCOM). We went one metro stop from their hotel and walked to the last apartment of Dostoevsky which is now a museum where we inquired about a guide and found we’ll have to call somebody Monday. After walking through a big farmers market and looking in the old Vladimir Church we walked a few blocks to Tanya’s brother’s apartment. Their big collie dog there I played with on previous trips greeted me excitedly. I really think she remembered me.
After a brief visit with Sasha and his wife Natasha and her daughter Lida, a chemistry student at a university, Tanya and I went to Mollie’s Irish Bar where I enjoyed a wonderful Kilkenny beer and Tanya had a small Guiness and we shared some snacks.
From there we strolled along Nevsky Prospekt, the main street of St. Petersburg. We stopped to go inside the hugh Kazan Cathedral. This old cathedral, modeled after St. Peter’s in the Vatican was turned into the Museum of Atheism in 1932. Now it has been returned to the Orthodox Church and there are always worshipers inside lighting candles and saying prayers. Sometimes there is a worship service in progress and the beautiful sound of a choir. Russian orthodox churches are very ornate with all kinds of icons and paintings on the walls. There are no pews. Worshipers stand and move around during services.
From the Kazan Cathedral we walked to a very different kind of church, The Evangelical Lutheran St. Mary’s Church in St. Petersburg. In front of the church we saw a photo of the PCOM choir announcing their concert this coming Tuesday. This is an old church. Peter the Great, who founded St. Petersburg in 1703 granted to Lutherans (from Finland) the right to practice their own religion. In 1938 the church was closed and Soviet officials turned it into a residential home and later into a venue for natural history exhibitions. Tanya told me of attending several such exhibitions there. In 1990 the church was re-founded. The interior looks as if it were recently restored. It is nearly all white, with neat rows of pews, and large painting of the resurrected Christ in front of the congregation. It is as austere as the orthodox church is ornate – a striking contrast. Services are held there in Finnish, Russian, and occasionally in English. We’re looking forward to the PCOM choir’s concert there.
After continuing our leisurely stroll through the city, took the metro home and arrived just as it started raining. There was a hard rain for about two hours in the evening which cleared the air. The weather is much cooler today with big puffy white clouds drifting across the sky.
I slept well last night. Night here doesn’t mean darkness. According to the newspaper the sun will set today at 11:25 p.m. and rise at 4:36 a.m. It only gets really dark for about three hours. So the trick to sleeping is to have a darkened room or put something over ones eyes. I did the latter with a little “eye cover” from Aeroflot airlines.
Today Tanya’s mother, Anastasia Yevseyevna, arrived by train from Baronovichi in Belarus. She is a cheerful and energetic woman whom I like very much. She brought souvenirs for all of us, pails of fresh sweet strawberries, and even about two dozen eggs which she said were more tasty because they are from a village.
So these are just the highlights of my experiences in the last 24 hours. I’ve had many more impressions than I have time or ability to share.
Next we tried to register my passport but the office was closed. Then we scouted out a little excursion I plan for a few of the more adventurous members of the choir of the Presbyterian Church of the Master (hereafter PCOM). We went one metro stop from their hotel and walked to the last apartment of Dostoevsky which is now a museum where we inquired about a guide and found we’ll have to call somebody Monday. After walking through a big farmers market and looking in the old Vladimir Church we walked a few blocks to Tanya’s brother’s apartment. Their big collie dog there I played with on previous trips greeted me excitedly. I really think she remembered me.
After a brief visit with Sasha and his wife Natasha and her daughter Lida, a chemistry student at a university, Tanya and I went to Mollie’s Irish Bar where I enjoyed a wonderful Kilkenny beer and Tanya had a small Guiness and we shared some snacks.
From there we strolled along Nevsky Prospekt, the main street of St. Petersburg. We stopped to go inside the hugh Kazan Cathedral. This old cathedral, modeled after St. Peter’s in the Vatican was turned into the Museum of Atheism in 1932. Now it has been returned to the Orthodox Church and there are always worshipers inside lighting candles and saying prayers. Sometimes there is a worship service in progress and the beautiful sound of a choir. Russian orthodox churches are very ornate with all kinds of icons and paintings on the walls. There are no pews. Worshipers stand and move around during services.
From the Kazan Cathedral we walked to a very different kind of church, The Evangelical Lutheran St. Mary’s Church in St. Petersburg. In front of the church we saw a photo of the PCOM choir announcing their concert this coming Tuesday. This is an old church. Peter the Great, who founded St. Petersburg in 1703 granted to Lutherans (from Finland) the right to practice their own religion. In 1938 the church was closed and Soviet officials turned it into a residential home and later into a venue for natural history exhibitions. Tanya told me of attending several such exhibitions there. In 1990 the church was re-founded. The interior looks as if it were recently restored. It is nearly all white, with neat rows of pews, and large painting of the resurrected Christ in front of the congregation. It is as austere as the orthodox church is ornate – a striking contrast. Services are held there in Finnish, Russian, and occasionally in English. We’re looking forward to the PCOM choir’s concert there.
After continuing our leisurely stroll through the city, took the metro home and arrived just as it started raining. There was a hard rain for about two hours in the evening which cleared the air. The weather is much cooler today with big puffy white clouds drifting across the sky.
I slept well last night. Night here doesn’t mean darkness. According to the newspaper the sun will set today at 11:25 p.m. and rise at 4:36 a.m. It only gets really dark for about three hours. So the trick to sleeping is to have a darkened room or put something over ones eyes. I did the latter with a little “eye cover” from Aeroflot airlines.
Today Tanya’s mother, Anastasia Yevseyevna, arrived by train from Baronovichi in Belarus. She is a cheerful and energetic woman whom I like very much. She brought souvenirs for all of us, pails of fresh sweet strawberries, and even about two dozen eggs which she said were more tasty because they are from a village.
So these are just the highlights of my experiences in the last 24 hours. I’ve had many more impressions than I have time or ability to share.
Saturday, June 25, 2005
Be Positive
“Be positive” These were the words (in English) on a t-shirt worn by a young woman who sat down across from us on the metro. It was an unexpected reminder of what is necessary to have happy travels as well as a happy life. By nature I am not a very positive or outgoing person. Generally I would rather stay home and read a good book than go to a social event. I have to push myself hard to meet people, to be an extravert. In a foreign country with a strange language and strange customs, it takes all the positive energy I can create to have a good time. I have written these words of Rick Steves in my journal: “Be fanatically positive and militantly optimistic.”
Yesterday we went across town to shop for groceries at a sort of farmer’s market because Tanya says that the prices are less expensive there. When we started out we bought metro cards each with 40 rides. (I think it works out to about 30 cents a ride.) When I first put my card in the slot it didn’t work and made a an alarming noise. A kindly security guard came over and without saying a word turned my card upside down and inserted it in the slot and the gate opened. Even Tanya had the same problem, but now we know how to use our metro cards.
We went to Sennia Ploshed, the Haymarket Square mentioned in Dostoevsky’s Crime and Punishment. It has always been a rather poor, seedy neighborhood, but now there are some new multi-story shopping centers that are very clean and impressive. I even noticed a Hallmark shop. And of course MacDonald’s is omnipresent. After buying some house slippers for me for 100 roubles (exchange rate is about 28.4 roubles per dollar), we went on to the “farmer’s market”, a large warehouse with all kinds of produce, fish, meat, etc. in open stalls. The day was warm and I was thirsty. After I got a small mineral water, I sat in the shade outside while they did the shopping. A man with a bottle of beer in his hand sat down with me and started a conversation. He was surprised to learn that I was an American. I told him that I don’t speak Russian very well. He said, “Don’t be ashamed, just speak.” And he proceeded to speak to me as if I understood everything he said. I understood that he was a pensioner, had worked 33 years as a machinist, that he was born in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad), that didn’t like the influx of foreigners from the Asian former republics like Uzbekistan, that he preferred the Soviet time to today. I have found that the majority of people over 40 years old also believe that life was better in the Soviet period. They would trade the freedom they have now for the stability they had then.
In the evening Tanya and I went to visit my old friends, the Paskin family. We were surprised that Sasha Paskin had completely remodeled their apartment which makes it look very bright and modern. They also have a nice new computer. We enjoyed a big, leisurely meal and discussed visiting them in their village of Borovichi. I was grateful that the twin girls, Masha and Katya, agreed to sing for the church choir on the 29th. The girls are 18 now and completing their second year at the Hertzen Pedagogical University. I first met the Paskin family 9 years ago when the girls were just 9. I’ve been able to visit them nearly every year and in 2001 I helped them visit us in America. It’s always a great pleasure to be with this warm, intelligent, and talented family.
Well it’s time for me to push myself out the door to new adventures. I’ll try to be positive.
Yesterday we went across town to shop for groceries at a sort of farmer’s market because Tanya says that the prices are less expensive there. When we started out we bought metro cards each with 40 rides. (I think it works out to about 30 cents a ride.) When I first put my card in the slot it didn’t work and made a an alarming noise. A kindly security guard came over and without saying a word turned my card upside down and inserted it in the slot and the gate opened. Even Tanya had the same problem, but now we know how to use our metro cards.
We went to Sennia Ploshed, the Haymarket Square mentioned in Dostoevsky’s Crime and Punishment. It has always been a rather poor, seedy neighborhood, but now there are some new multi-story shopping centers that are very clean and impressive. I even noticed a Hallmark shop. And of course MacDonald’s is omnipresent. After buying some house slippers for me for 100 roubles (exchange rate is about 28.4 roubles per dollar), we went on to the “farmer’s market”, a large warehouse with all kinds of produce, fish, meat, etc. in open stalls. The day was warm and I was thirsty. After I got a small mineral water, I sat in the shade outside while they did the shopping. A man with a bottle of beer in his hand sat down with me and started a conversation. He was surprised to learn that I was an American. I told him that I don’t speak Russian very well. He said, “Don’t be ashamed, just speak.” And he proceeded to speak to me as if I understood everything he said. I understood that he was a pensioner, had worked 33 years as a machinist, that he was born in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad), that didn’t like the influx of foreigners from the Asian former republics like Uzbekistan, that he preferred the Soviet time to today. I have found that the majority of people over 40 years old also believe that life was better in the Soviet period. They would trade the freedom they have now for the stability they had then.
In the evening Tanya and I went to visit my old friends, the Paskin family. We were surprised that Sasha Paskin had completely remodeled their apartment which makes it look very bright and modern. They also have a nice new computer. We enjoyed a big, leisurely meal and discussed visiting them in their village of Borovichi. I was grateful that the twin girls, Masha and Katya, agreed to sing for the church choir on the 29th. The girls are 18 now and completing their second year at the Hertzen Pedagogical University. I first met the Paskin family 9 years ago when the girls were just 9. I’ve been able to visit them nearly every year and in 2001 I helped them visit us in America. It’s always a great pleasure to be with this warm, intelligent, and talented family.
Well it’s time for me to push myself out the door to new adventures. I’ll try to be positive.
Friday, June 24, 2005
a short entry
This short entry will be an experiment. Since Svyatoslav’s computer uses a cable modem which is the same as the telephone line and since he shares the phone line with his neighbors, it is better for me to create an entry off line and then paste it in the blog. So I want to see if this works. We also discovered last night that I cannot run my digital album which contains files of photos directly into his computer. It needs a special driver and we were unable to download one. So my only chance to download pictures seems to be using an internet café. I was able to take some nice pictures of Yosemite as we flow over it including some spectacular shots of Half Dome.
Now I see that this system works. So now we start a new day.
Now I see that this system works. So now we start a new day.
Thursday, June 23, 2005
St. Petersburg at last!
We are finally in St. Petersburg! The weather is absolutely beautiful today - warm and sunny! Unfortunately we are too exhausted to enjoy it all day. We got up at 4:00 this morning after only about 4 hour's sleep. We had a quick breakfast and went down to the taxi waiting for us. We said goodby to Roman and Ludmilla and the taxi drove us to the airport. Since there was no traffic at that hour we got to the airport quickly and had to wait. The plane was full and cramped, but the flight took less than an hour. Tanya's son, Svyatoslav, and brother, Sasha, met us at the airport and drove us (in Sasha's car) to Svyatoslav's apartment through lots of traffic. Svyatoslav's apartment is on the fourth floor with no "lift". So we get a little extra exercise. It has a large livingroom, one bedroom, a sunlit kitchen and two balconies. I helped him pick it out last year when he moved from another apartment. The apartment is in an excellent location - a three minute walk to a metro station and then three stops to the center of the city. There are all kinds of stores nearby.
After taking a shower and having a little to eat, Tanya and I went out to take a look around. I extracted some roubles from an ATM and we bought some groceries. It was very plesant just to walk around looking at the shops and many people on the street enjoying the warm sunshine. Later we went out with Svyatoslav and bought a card which gives him internet access. So that is why I can make this entry and future entries from his computer. We will also try to add a photo or two but I can't promise anything.
Keep those comments coming in. We're in Russia and the fun has just begun!
After taking a shower and having a little to eat, Tanya and I went out to take a look around. I extracted some roubles from an ATM and we bought some groceries. It was very plesant just to walk around looking at the shops and many people on the street enjoying the warm sunshine. Later we went out with Svyatoslav and bought a card which gives him internet access. So that is why I can make this entry and future entries from his computer. We will also try to add a photo or two but I can't promise anything.
Keep those comments coming in. We're in Russia and the fun has just begun!
Wednesday, June 22, 2005
Arrival in Moscow
I am making this entry from Moscow where we arrived today after our twelve hour flight. The flight went well and was relaxing after going through the waiting and controls that are now in place for our security. After landing inMoscow, going thourgh passport control and picking up our luggage, Ludmila, the mother of my old friend Roman, met us at the airport and had a taxi to take us through Moscow to their apartment where she put on a big feast for us. Roman joined us later coming from a club where he was learning about Shakespearean acting. He speaks English perfectly. I've known him since 1989 when he was a teenager in Odessa, Ukraine. Now he works at the help desk at the American Embassy in Moscow. The weather here is beautiful today, sunny and mild when we arrived. I don't feel terribly tired in spite of the time change. It is just after 11:00 p.m. here and I don't even want to think what time it is in California. Very early tomorrow we will fly to St. Petersburg. It's great to be back in Russia!
Sunday, June 19, 2005
Preparations in Progress
"He who would travel happily must travel light." - Antoine De Saint-Exupert
Travel guru Rick Steves, whom I admire and envy, writes, "In your travels, you'll meet two kinds of tourists - those who pack light and those who wish they had."
So what does light mean? Rick Steves recommends limiting luggage to 20 pounds in a backpack measuring 9"x22"x14". I admit I've never been able to do this. I need a large suitcase, a Rick Steves backpack, and another smaller bag for all my stuff. At that it takes me several days of planning and sorting and prioritizing to get everything squeezed in. Part of what I have in my large suitcase is overflow from my wife's things. She does not believe in traveling light. She believes in bringing things from America for her family. So half her luggage is gifts of clothes and food (like chocolate and nuts as if these things were not readily available in Russia).
Another sensible thing Rick Steves recommends in order to minimize the debilitating effects of jet lag is to have everything ready to go two days before ones actual departure date. Since our departure date is Tuesday the 21st, that means that I should be ready to go now. Well, I've tried to hard to meet this deadline and I'm about 90% ready to go. Tanya is about 50% ready to go. She tends to do things at the last minute. A Russian friend of hers tells me that doing things at the last minute is characteristic of Russians.
So that's my report on our preparations in process. I notice that there have been no comments on my blog. Feel free to make a comment if you read this.
If all goes well, my next entry will be from Russia.
Travel guru Rick Steves, whom I admire and envy, writes, "In your travels, you'll meet two kinds of tourists - those who pack light and those who wish they had."
So what does light mean? Rick Steves recommends limiting luggage to 20 pounds in a backpack measuring 9"x22"x14". I admit I've never been able to do this. I need a large suitcase, a Rick Steves backpack, and another smaller bag for all my stuff. At that it takes me several days of planning and sorting and prioritizing to get everything squeezed in. Part of what I have in my large suitcase is overflow from my wife's things. She does not believe in traveling light. She believes in bringing things from America for her family. So half her luggage is gifts of clothes and food (like chocolate and nuts as if these things were not readily available in Russia).
Another sensible thing Rick Steves recommends in order to minimize the debilitating effects of jet lag is to have everything ready to go two days before ones actual departure date. Since our departure date is Tuesday the 21st, that means that I should be ready to go now. Well, I've tried to hard to meet this deadline and I'm about 90% ready to go. Tanya is about 50% ready to go. She tends to do things at the last minute. A Russian friend of hers tells me that doing things at the last minute is characteristic of Russians.
So that's my report on our preparations in process. I notice that there have been no comments on my blog. Feel free to make a comment if you read this.
If all goes well, my next entry will be from Russia.
Sunday, June 12, 2005
Saturday, June 11, 2005
Preparing for trip to Russia
I am preparing for my thirteenth trip to Russia. My wife Tatyana and I will depart from Los Angeles on June 21st, 2005, arriving the next day in Moscow. After an overnight visit with friends in Moscow, we will fly on to St. Petersburg on the morning of the 23rd. There we will stay with my wife's son, Svyatoslov, in his apartment. I will return to America July 19th and Tanya will stay for an additional month. I look forward to side trips to a Russian village and Moscow. I am also very excited about meeting with the wonderful choir from the Presbyterian Church of the Master in Mission Viejo, California. They (49 participants) will be in St. Petersburg June 28th and 29th.
I am a complete novice to blogging. I established this blog mainly as a way for family and friends to follow my adventures in Russia, but others are invited to follow along. So I invite everyone to check out this blog as I blah, blah, blah about my trip to Russia.
I am a complete novice to blogging. I established this blog mainly as a way for family and friends to follow my adventures in Russia, but others are invited to follow along. So I invite everyone to check out this blog as I blah, blah, blah about my trip to Russia.
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