Village Life Old and New

When I first met the Paschin family in February, 1996, in St. Petersburg, Nadia Paschin told me of the "village" where she and her husband, Sasha, were born and where they live each summer with their twin daughters, Masha and Katya. Since Sasha and Nadia are both school teachers they have the summer free. She was very enthusiastic telling me about how wonderful it was there with a nearby river, forests where one can pick edible mushrooms, many sorts of wild berries, old houses, and lots of fresh air. She made it sound so good that I asked if I might visit them in the village. They were happy to offer me hospitality. So in the summer of 1997 I made my first visit to Borovichi. I fell in love with the serenity of the place, the rustic homes, the nearby meandering river Msta (pronounced just like it looks), the friendliness of the people. I also enjoyed the semi-celebrity status of being the only American in town. This was the real Russia. I have been back to Borovichi many times and always enjoy my visit.
Borovichi (which means something like "piney") was officially designated as a city in 1770, but Sasha who is an historian and archaeologist tells me that there is evidence it has been continuously inhabited since Neolithic times. I got various replies when I asked about the size of the population: 60,000 - 75,000. So it is really a town, not difficult to find on the map about halfway between St. Petersburg and Moscow. I've seen many positive changes since my first visit - churches being restored, a new supermarket. But this year I was really impressed with the acceleration of change that has happened since my last visit two years ago. There is a sturdy new bridge linking the two sides of the town, there is a popular new Sports Complex which opened last January, and new buildings anb homes going up everywhere. The residents are clearly enjoying a new level of prosperity. Borovichi now attracts Russian visitors both winter and summer who enjoy escaping the stressful pace of city life and relaxing in "the village".
Here are some photos showing both the old and new in Borovichi. Since I am using my own computer at home, I have not reduced the size of the photos. If you left-click on them, they will be shown large. To return to the blog, click on the back arrow.
I traveled there by train on July 11th. Tanya decided to arrive on the 13th. Wanting to avoid the crowded "platzcard" class of travel, I purchased a ticket for a "kupe", a cabin seating four with four beds. I was alone in my cabin which gave me time to read and rest during the six and a half hour trip. I was told it is about a four hour drive by car. So here I am sitting alone and happy in my cabin.
My shirt says "Russia".

The train station in Borovichi. Notice the sign.

Nadia in her kitchen preparing Russian pancakes, "blini". She had a lot to do to get ready for the wedding, but took time to be an attentative hostess to me and made sure that I was well fed.

A stack hot blini

Masha and her husband, Dima (Dimitri). The baby (twice predicted by doctors to be a girl)

is due in early August.

A colorful old wooden house framed by birch trees. I prefer the old wooden houses
to the modern brick structures.

Nadia, Katya, Vitalik (the groom), and Vitalik's mother, Tatyana,

doing some last minute bridal shopping.

This is one of the supermarkets in town - very clean and well-stocked.

This is a photo inside the supermarket

showing the location of the market in the horse and buggy days.

Tatyana and Nadia shopping.

The new "Sportivni Komplex" called "OLIMP".

The adult pool and Jacuzzi. The lap pool is off to the right. I thought I might swim a few laps, but changed my mind when I discovered how cold the water was. There are also separate men's and women's saunas on the same floor. For about $8 you can enjoy the pools for an hour and a half. For $40 you can come to the pools for an hour and a half every day all summer.

The children's pool.

We arrived an hour too early for bowling. To pass the time, we first had a coffee and snack in the cafe and then took a stroll around the neighborhood. Sasha told me that this is his favorite shirt. I gave it to him several years ago.

An outdoor market close to the Sports Complex. Notice the yellow mushrooms at the right. One vender was using an abacus, but I didn't get a photo.

Old and new buildings stand side by side.

Old wooden houses like this were torn down to make room for the new Sports Complex and adjoining hotel still under construction.

The old bridge is for pedestrians only.

The new bridge over the River Msta.

Behind the bridge is the golden cupola of an old church being restored.

Sasha bowling. It was the first time either of had bowled in Russia.

Identical twins Anton and Artium are schoolmates of Masha and Katya. They came for Katya's wedding, but also were serious about fishing every day.

A little success.

Red faced American tourist emerges from steam room in a banya (bath) in Borovichi. Banyas are one of the things I most love in Russia and cannot find in America. In my left hand I'm holding "venik", a bouquet of birch tree leaves. In my right hand I am holding a sign that says, "Slokum parim" which in English would be "With light steam". It is a popular idiom said to people emerging from a banya or even a shower. It is really not translatable, but means something like, "I hope you had a good bath, or enjoyed the steam". The steam room of the banya (which is off to the left) can get very hot. This round felt pad is useful to place on the hot wood before lying face down. The wooden spoon I am holding is used to scoop water to pour on hot stones to make steam. The fragrance of birch leaves and water or steam is something wonderful. Yes, I know, I need to loose weight. A regular banya would help.