In the Kremlin: The Tsar's Cannon that never functionedand an old church that did
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Red Square
From left: Goom Department Store, Hotel Rossia,St. Basil's Cathedral, Lenin Mausoleum, Savior Tower
Sunday, July 17, 2005
Brief Highlights from Moscow
Before my host's internet time runs out here a are a few brief highlights of our visit to Moscow. Yesterday, while Tanya and her son went to an art gallery, Roma and I went to a Davis Cup match and watched most of a doubles match between France and Russia. Boris Yeltsen was in the crowd looking happy to be a private citizen. All of visited us a married couple who are friends of Roma who paint icons in a studio high up in the hugh Cathedral of Christ the Saviour with a magnificant view of the city. It is a place where tourists do not get to visit!
Today we visited the museum/home of Leo Tolstoy and the Patriarch Ponds made famous by author M. Bulgakov in his book Master and Margarita. This evening we had a wounderful, big meal in a Kavkas restaurant with dear old friends. Photos and details to follow.
Today we visited the museum/home of Leo Tolstoy and the Patriarch Ponds made famous by author M. Bulgakov in his book Master and Margarita. This evening we had a wounderful, big meal in a Kavkas restaurant with dear old friends. Photos and details to follow.
Saturday, July 16, 2005
Moscow
We arrived in Moscow yesterday morning, July 15th, at 5:30 and are staying with my friend, Roma.
While Roma worked yesterday, Tanya, Svyatoslav and I toured the city: Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral (including a tour of the inside)a boat ride on the Moscow River, a stroll through old Arbat Street, a meal in the Shamrock Bar. The weather was hot and humid. Millions of people were in the streets and metros. We saw no less than 20 wedding parties entering Red Square almost in a procession.
Just as we were trying to figure out where to turn to get a tram or bus after emerging from the metro nearest to Roma's apartment, he appeared! A wonderful coincidence. Later in the evening Roma and I remanised about his visit to California 10 years ago. Today we plan to attend a Davis Cup Match and go to a theatrical performance.
I'm having a great time but look forward to returning to California.
While Roma worked yesterday, Tanya, Svyatoslav and I toured the city: Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral (including a tour of the inside)a boat ride on the Moscow River, a stroll through old Arbat Street, a meal in the Shamrock Bar. The weather was hot and humid. Millions of people were in the streets and metros. We saw no less than 20 wedding parties entering Red Square almost in a procession.
Just as we were trying to figure out where to turn to get a tram or bus after emerging from the metro nearest to Roma's apartment, he appeared! A wonderful coincidence. Later in the evening Roma and I remanised about his visit to California 10 years ago. Today we plan to attend a Davis Cup Match and go to a theatrical performance.
I'm having a great time but look forward to returning to California.
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Highlights
Here are a few highlights from the last few days. Sunday we visited Irena Popovich and her daughter, Genia. Irena is the current director of the youth center where Tanya was formerly the director. Genia is an accomplished gymnast with many medals in her collection although she is only thirteen years old. All four of us visited their apartment on a hot day. Genia showed us videos of her performance last November in Belgium where she won a third place medal. She also showed her new computer and a Harry Potter game.
Sunday evening Tanya’s brother, Sasha dropped by for a visit. He volunteered to take us to the train station Thursday for our trip to Moscow.
Yesterday, while Tanya and her son went to the movie “World of the Worlds”, I went off by myself to see the Peter Paul Fortress on Hare Island, the island on which Peter the Great founded the city in 1703. Tour groups from a variety of countries were visiting the Fortress and the Peter Paul Cathedral where most of the Romanovs starting with Peter the Great are buried. On the shores of the island many locals were sunbathing. I walked across two bridges, saw more bridal parties, transversed Palace Square, went through the courtyards of the Kapella, ate a blin, strolled up Nevsky Prospekt, paused to inspect paintings displayed on the street, and finally took the metro home.
Here are a few more photos:
Sunday evening Tanya’s brother, Sasha dropped by for a visit. He volunteered to take us to the train station Thursday for our trip to Moscow.
Yesterday, while Tanya and her son went to the movie “World of the Worlds”, I went off by myself to see the Peter Paul Fortress on Hare Island, the island on which Peter the Great founded the city in 1703. Tour groups from a variety of countries were visiting the Fortress and the Peter Paul Cathedral where most of the Romanovs starting with Peter the Great are buried. On the shores of the island many locals were sunbathing. I walked across two bridges, saw more bridal parties, transversed Palace Square, went through the courtyards of the Kapella, ate a blin, strolled up Nevsky Prospekt, paused to inspect paintings displayed on the street, and finally took the metro home.
Here are a few more photos:
Sunday, July 10, 2005
A Beautiful Day in St. Petersburg
Yesterday was sunny and warm here in St. Petersburg, a beautiful day. All four of us went for a ride on a boat through the rivers and canals of the city. I had never seen so many boats on the St. Petersburg waterways. With the movement of the boat making a slight breeze, the weather was just ideal. Like most such boat excursions there was a guide who gave a running commentary in Russian. Our guide was animated and spoke distinctly so I was able to understand most of what she said. I used my video camera and digital camera almost simultaneously often taking pictures upside down (knowing I could turn the picture right side up later.)
At the conclusion of the boat ride we went briefly in the Kazan Cathedral and then strolled down Nevsky Prospekt to Palace Square in front of the Hermitage Museum. We were hungry by this time and decided to go to a nearby kiosk for blini. On the way we walked through the courtyards of the Kapella building. My guidebook says that the building was home of the Imperial Court Choir established by Peter the Great. Now it appears to be a music school. While Tanya was asking about the time of a jazz performance in a restaurant, I saw a sign about a concert June 9th. I asked in a ticket window about the price of tickets and learned that it was free and would be at 5:00 p.m. It was then about 3:30 p.m. Svyataslov decided to go home while the rest of us decided to eat and go to the concert. As we walked through an underpass through the Kapella complex there were two guitarists playing – classical guitar. They let me video them. They said that they were students at the Kapella. They played with great skill.
The blini kiosk was on the same tree-lined street where the PCOM Choir had performed. As we walked by the St. Marie’s Lutheran Church I noticed an artist a few feet away down a side street making a painting of the church. I went over for a closer look and discovered that the artist was Ilaysov, the man from whom I’d purchased a painting of the Hermitage (with me painted into the scene) two years ago. He recognized me. The painting was about finished. I offered to buy it for 1,000 roubles ($35) and he agreed. I told him I would be back in a few minutes. We went on to have our blini on the street where we found a place to sit in the shade. Then I returned to Ilaysov and asked if he would again paint me into the scene. He readily agreed and suggested that I sit on the right of the church to balance the composition. So I sat on a convenient place to the right of the church for about 10 minutes until he motioned to me to return to him. Since the painting was tempura rather than oil, it was dry when finished. Ilaysov wrote on the back of it in English and Russian that the painting was a gift to Bill Goff from him and that the artist gives his permission for the painting to be exported. Then he rolled up the canvas in newspaper. I put it in my backpack and gave him the 1,000 roubles which he was happy to receive. I was delighted to have doubled my collection of Ilyasov paintings – both with me painted into the scene!
Down the street Tanya and her mom were sitting in the window of a coffee house sipping coffee and a grapefruit juice and sharing a dessert. Tanya had me make photos and videos of the two ladies of leisure. Their bill came to 339 roubles. I gave the cashier exact change and he spoke to me in English; I spoke to him in Russian. We congratulated each other on being able to use each other’s language.
The courtyard was nearly full with about 200 people in seats and others standing at 5:00 p.m. for the concert. At first we heard a brass quintet play Bach and Handel and (I think) Purcell. Then there was a string quartet with a harpsicord and an opera singer and then a basoon player who later played the oboe. I took about fifteen minutes of video until me battery died. After the concert we took some photos with the singer who turned out to be from Switzerland and spoke English, French, and at least one word of Russian – spaceebo (thanks).
Then we went home. As we ate our evening meal we watched the video of our day’s adventures and later looked at photos on the computer.
At the conclusion of the boat ride we went briefly in the Kazan Cathedral and then strolled down Nevsky Prospekt to Palace Square in front of the Hermitage Museum. We were hungry by this time and decided to go to a nearby kiosk for blini. On the way we walked through the courtyards of the Kapella building. My guidebook says that the building was home of the Imperial Court Choir established by Peter the Great. Now it appears to be a music school. While Tanya was asking about the time of a jazz performance in a restaurant, I saw a sign about a concert June 9th. I asked in a ticket window about the price of tickets and learned that it was free and would be at 5:00 p.m. It was then about 3:30 p.m. Svyataslov decided to go home while the rest of us decided to eat and go to the concert. As we walked through an underpass through the Kapella complex there were two guitarists playing – classical guitar. They let me video them. They said that they were students at the Kapella. They played with great skill.
The blini kiosk was on the same tree-lined street where the PCOM Choir had performed. As we walked by the St. Marie’s Lutheran Church I noticed an artist a few feet away down a side street making a painting of the church. I went over for a closer look and discovered that the artist was Ilaysov, the man from whom I’d purchased a painting of the Hermitage (with me painted into the scene) two years ago. He recognized me. The painting was about finished. I offered to buy it for 1,000 roubles ($35) and he agreed. I told him I would be back in a few minutes. We went on to have our blini on the street where we found a place to sit in the shade. Then I returned to Ilaysov and asked if he would again paint me into the scene. He readily agreed and suggested that I sit on the right of the church to balance the composition. So I sat on a convenient place to the right of the church for about 10 minutes until he motioned to me to return to him. Since the painting was tempura rather than oil, it was dry when finished. Ilaysov wrote on the back of it in English and Russian that the painting was a gift to Bill Goff from him and that the artist gives his permission for the painting to be exported. Then he rolled up the canvas in newspaper. I put it in my backpack and gave him the 1,000 roubles which he was happy to receive. I was delighted to have doubled my collection of Ilyasov paintings – both with me painted into the scene!
Down the street Tanya and her mom were sitting in the window of a coffee house sipping coffee and a grapefruit juice and sharing a dessert. Tanya had me make photos and videos of the two ladies of leisure. Their bill came to 339 roubles. I gave the cashier exact change and he spoke to me in English; I spoke to him in Russian. We congratulated each other on being able to use each other’s language.
The courtyard was nearly full with about 200 people in seats and others standing at 5:00 p.m. for the concert. At first we heard a brass quintet play Bach and Handel and (I think) Purcell. Then there was a string quartet with a harpsicord and an opera singer and then a basoon player who later played the oboe. I took about fifteen minutes of video until me battery died. After the concert we took some photos with the singer who turned out to be from Switzerland and spoke English, French, and at least one word of Russian – spaceebo (thanks).
Then we went home. As we ate our evening meal we watched the video of our day’s adventures and later looked at photos on the computer.
Ice Cream
Most Russians, including my wife, are fond of ice cream.There are vendors everywhere, especially on Nevsky Prospekt.
Beautiful Scenery
Not all the beautiful scenery in St. Petersburginvolves old buildings and waterways!
The building in the background is the old
Wolf and Berenger Cafe where Russia's
most famous poet, Alexander Pushkin, had his last
meal before going to a duel in which he was
mortally wounded in 1837.
Opera Singer with String Quartet
I'm not sure why her hair was so short. Perhaps toaccommodate wigs in performances.
Thursday, July 07, 2005
"With Light Steam" and other adventures in Borovichi
Today I returned to St. Petersburg after four nights in Borovichi where life goes on at a much slower pace than the big city, where many people know each other, where people are very friendly and hospitable, and where the visit of an American is welcomed rarity. My hunch is that Borovichi is more representative of Russia than is St. Petersburg or Moscow. It is not a fairy tale village, but a thriving town of nearly 60,000 citizens. In 1770 it officially became a city at the decree of Elizabeth II, but according to my host, Sasha Paschen, who is a history teacher, there is evidence that people lived in that location beside the river Msta in Neolithic times - and that it has been continuously inhabited since the Stone Age. Sasha and his wife, Nadia, were born there and return every summer when their teaching duties are completed in St. Petersburg. According to Nadia, she lives two months every year in Borovichi; during the other ten months she simply exists. Their home is located in the outskirts of the town on a dirt road named after the famous Russian General Suvorov, about 300 yards from the river Msta. Around their home are many colorful and decorative wooden houses, many over 100 years old. My first impression on arriving at their home is how quiet it is there; the calm is palpable and relaxing, inviting frantic visitors to live at a slower pace.
On the 4th of July, after hanging a big American flag on a wall of their veranda, Sasha and I walked to the center of town stopping at two beautiful churches on the way. One church has been reopened only this year after much restoration. I asked a woman attendant there when the church had been founded. She said, "Seven hundred years ago". In the center of town we bought provisions for our 4th of July party including over 4 kilograms of pig's neck which is excellent barbecuing. Back at their home we spent several hours cutting the meat and putting it into a marinade which Sasha brewed.
Sasha's sister, Nina and her husband, Sergae dropped by driving his big military green van. After a leisurly tea Sergae drove us back into town where we picked up some charcoal (which we had forgotten in our morning shopping) and then drove us around the town, stopping briefly at an old castle.
In the evening, over the course of three or four hours, various relatives, friends and neighbors dropped by to enjoy the barbecue and to wish me a happy 4th of July. After the next door neighbors finished eating with us, they went home and soon returned with a big bowstrawberriesrries picked fresh from their garden. Russian strawberries tend to be smaller and much more sweet and flavorful than ours. Eating them was a real treat. When each new guest dropped by, Sasha would give a toast to "the Great American holiday, Independence Day". In turn I toasted Russia's Victory Day. (This year Russia celebrated the 60th anniversary of their victory over Germany in what they call The Great Patriotic War. Estimates are that about 20,000,000 Russians lost their lives in that war. If it had not been for their valor and sacrifice, America might not have been able to conquer Hitler. Sasha later told me that his father had gone to the front at age sixteen.) During the meal I was surprised that I was able to call my parents on Sasha's new cell phone. My Dad said that I sounded very clear.
The highlight of the next day was Kolya's banya. Kolya (short for Nicholas) is another cousin of Sasha's. His home is a ten minute walk away. Although he had to work, he invited us to prepare the banya.Sergeysha, Sergai, and I, with the help of Sasha's aunt Rita, "Tyota Rita", made a fire in the banya furnace and kept nursing it along until it was ready to be used, a process that lasted over four hours , time for Tyota Rita to serve us some soup, potatoes and tea and to chat a little about her life and Sasha's late father, and show us family photos.
Going to a Russian banya (bath) is one of my favorite experiences. Banyas come in different sizes and shapes, but all have a brick furnace over which is a big basin for water which is brought to a boil. The rest of the banya is made of wood and little benches line the walls. There are ample containers for water to be mixed to the right temperature for bathing. When the furnace isgeneralseated, it generats lots of heat and steam. More steam can be made by throwing water on heated stones in part of the furnace. The heat and steam makes bathers sweat profusely. Another feature of the Russian banya is the use of a venig, a bundle of leafy birch twigs. After the venig is soaked in boiling water, it becomes soft and aromatic. We beat ourselves and each other with the venig opening up the pores of our skin and expelling dirt I didn't know was there. We only spent about five minutes at a time in the main room of the banya; then went to the outer room to cool off and drink beer. The banya is a real communal experience which gregarious RussiaSergeye. Sasha and Sergai told me that they have solved many world problems in a banya and that "in a banya there are no generals". At one point I lay on a shelf next to the furnace and Sasha thrashed my back and legs with the venig. He told me my back was red and asked if it hurt. It didn't. After many sessions of steaming and washing ourselves, we finally left the Banya and cooled down, first in the outer room and then outside. Two women who had been patiently waiting entered the banya. Impish Sasha snuk in and made a photo of them. Since, even my mother-in-law agrees that the photo is not pornographic, I decided to publish it. When bathers finally emerge from a banya people say to them "With light steam!" a phrase that is awkward to translate into English, but basically means "I hope you had a good bath".
On my final day in Borovichi Sergae drove six of us about 30 kilometers into the beautiful countryside where the forests, rolling hills, and occasional farms and clusters of houses reminded me of northern Idaho. We visited a two-story log house visited in by General Suvorov. (General Alexander Suvorov (1730 to1800) is one of the great heroes of Russian history perhaps most famous for his heroic crossing of the Swiss Alps Napoleon9 campaign against Nepolian). I enjoyed seeing the many wildflowers around the building including the unique "Ivan da Maria" which has bright yellow and violet blossoms on the same stem. We drove to a nearby lake for a picnic. To my surprise, Sasha had brought the American flag, and they insisted on displaying it for some photos. Many Russians have told me that they think the American flag is beautiful. They feel little emotional attachment to their current red, white, and blue flag.
Then we went to the Suvorov museum where I was able to ring some beautiful old bells by pulling on cords.
In the evening we celebrated Ivanovsky Noch with another barbecue. Ivanovsky Noch, or "Night of Ivan, the swimmer" is a very old, pre-Csuppressed folk holiday. It was supressed, if not banned during Soviet time, but has had a recent revival. The idea is that July 6th is about the time when most rivers are warm enough to swim in. People gather by the river and make fires which some young people jump over. Girls put flowered wreaths on their heads and later toss the wreaths into the river. Brave souls jump into the water at midnight for a swim. Even well past midnight there is plenty of twilight for these festivities.
This year we did not go to the river, but had our barbecue on Paschin's veranda. At about 11:30 p.m. Masha and Katya arrived from St. Petersburg where they had completed their last final exam. Even though their clothes were casual, I was amazed at how stylish and beautiful they looked - like rock stars. (Later Katya showed psome new slacks she had purchased. There was still a large tag on them which said in English "BIG SALE") The twins arrival was like a breath of fresh air, bringing new vitality and excitement to our modest celebration. I didn't get to bed until about 2:00 a.m. I got up before 4:30 a.m. to get ready to make it to the train scheduled to depart at 6:00 a.m. It was already quite light outside. The whole family got up as well to say good bye. Katya said that she hadn't even gone to bed all night. A taxi arrived, I said my final farewells, and Sasha went with me to the station. We were early and had time to have a good conversation including his appriasal of the degree of difficulty of Russian authors. I had purchased an old book of Ivan Bunin to try to read on the train. Sasha said that Bunin was a wonderful writer, that each word was just right. He said that he especially loved a short story called Antonovsky Apples. On the train we hugged each other in an emotional farewell. He departed and soon the train pulled out.
I was in a platzcart the open sections of the train (rather than a closed in coupe) in which most Russians travel. I shared the open compartment with a beautiful, stylishly dressed young woman (sorry, I took no photos) perhaps 22 years old, who had visited America two years ago and who spoke English. She told me she is from Borovichi, but now lives in St. Petersburg where she works as a manager in a trade center. She visits her parents in Borovichi once a month. Her name was Diana. She reminded me that Diana was the goddess of hunting. I asked her if she liked to hunt. "Sometimes", she said with a smile. She explained to me how to purchase sheets and a pillow case to make a bed on the bench. I pulled down a rolled up mattress, made the bed and by 7:00 a.m. I was lulled to sleep by the click clack and swaying of the train. When I finally got up we were nearing St. Petersburg. When we arrived Tanya and Svyatoslav were on the platform to greet me. I briefly introduced goddess Diana to them. Tanya said that I attract such beautiful women as honey attracts flies.
After two stops on the metro and a short walk we were home. Russians say, "Travel is good, but home is better" which is the equivalent of "Home, sweet home".
I had a good meal and Svyatoslav helped me download my photos to the computer. Then we heard the terrible news about the terrorist bombings in London in the metro there and I think on busses, although I got few details so far. What perilous and perplexing times we live in! I regard my travels not as an escape from the struggle against tyranny and terrorism, but as a purposful effort to combat these evils with face to face contact with people who have a very different background, culture, and language than me. I completely agree with Rick Steves who has written that travel is one of the main ways of combatting terrorism.
The photos below are in rough chronological order starting from the top.
I eagerly welcome comments from anyone who reads this blog.
On the 4th of July, after hanging a big American flag on a wall of their veranda, Sasha and I walked to the center of town stopping at two beautiful churches on the way. One church has been reopened only this year after much restoration. I asked a woman attendant there when the church had been founded. She said, "Seven hundred years ago". In the center of town we bought provisions for our 4th of July party including over 4 kilograms of pig's neck which is excellent barbecuing. Back at their home we spent several hours cutting the meat and putting it into a marinade which Sasha brewed.
Sasha's sister, Nina and her husband, Sergae dropped by driving his big military green van. After a leisurly tea Sergae drove us back into town where we picked up some charcoal (which we had forgotten in our morning shopping) and then drove us around the town, stopping briefly at an old castle.
In the evening, over the course of three or four hours, various relatives, friends and neighbors dropped by to enjoy the barbecue and to wish me a happy 4th of July. After the next door neighbors finished eating with us, they went home and soon returned with a big bowstrawberriesrries picked fresh from their garden. Russian strawberries tend to be smaller and much more sweet and flavorful than ours. Eating them was a real treat. When each new guest dropped by, Sasha would give a toast to "the Great American holiday, Independence Day". In turn I toasted Russia's Victory Day. (This year Russia celebrated the 60th anniversary of their victory over Germany in what they call The Great Patriotic War. Estimates are that about 20,000,000 Russians lost their lives in that war. If it had not been for their valor and sacrifice, America might not have been able to conquer Hitler. Sasha later told me that his father had gone to the front at age sixteen.) During the meal I was surprised that I was able to call my parents on Sasha's new cell phone. My Dad said that I sounded very clear.
The highlight of the next day was Kolya's banya. Kolya (short for Nicholas) is another cousin of Sasha's. His home is a ten minute walk away. Although he had to work, he invited us to prepare the banya.Sergeysha, Sergai, and I, with the help of Sasha's aunt Rita, "Tyota Rita", made a fire in the banya furnace and kept nursing it along until it was ready to be used, a process that lasted over four hours , time for Tyota Rita to serve us some soup, potatoes and tea and to chat a little about her life and Sasha's late father, and show us family photos.
Going to a Russian banya (bath) is one of my favorite experiences. Banyas come in different sizes and shapes, but all have a brick furnace over which is a big basin for water which is brought to a boil. The rest of the banya is made of wood and little benches line the walls. There are ample containers for water to be mixed to the right temperature for bathing. When the furnace isgeneralseated, it generats lots of heat and steam. More steam can be made by throwing water on heated stones in part of the furnace. The heat and steam makes bathers sweat profusely. Another feature of the Russian banya is the use of a venig, a bundle of leafy birch twigs. After the venig is soaked in boiling water, it becomes soft and aromatic. We beat ourselves and each other with the venig opening up the pores of our skin and expelling dirt I didn't know was there. We only spent about five minutes at a time in the main room of the banya; then went to the outer room to cool off and drink beer. The banya is a real communal experience which gregarious RussiaSergeye. Sasha and Sergai told me that they have solved many world problems in a banya and that "in a banya there are no generals". At one point I lay on a shelf next to the furnace and Sasha thrashed my back and legs with the venig. He told me my back was red and asked if it hurt. It didn't. After many sessions of steaming and washing ourselves, we finally left the Banya and cooled down, first in the outer room and then outside. Two women who had been patiently waiting entered the banya. Impish Sasha snuk in and made a photo of them. Since, even my mother-in-law agrees that the photo is not pornographic, I decided to publish it. When bathers finally emerge from a banya people say to them "With light steam!" a phrase that is awkward to translate into English, but basically means "I hope you had a good bath".
On my final day in Borovichi Sergae drove six of us about 30 kilometers into the beautiful countryside where the forests, rolling hills, and occasional farms and clusters of houses reminded me of northern Idaho. We visited a two-story log house visited in by General Suvorov. (General Alexander Suvorov (1730 to1800) is one of the great heroes of Russian history perhaps most famous for his heroic crossing of the Swiss Alps Napoleon9 campaign against Nepolian). I enjoyed seeing the many wildflowers around the building including the unique "Ivan da Maria" which has bright yellow and violet blossoms on the same stem. We drove to a nearby lake for a picnic. To my surprise, Sasha had brought the American flag, and they insisted on displaying it for some photos. Many Russians have told me that they think the American flag is beautiful. They feel little emotional attachment to their current red, white, and blue flag.
Then we went to the Suvorov museum where I was able to ring some beautiful old bells by pulling on cords.
In the evening we celebrated Ivanovsky Noch with another barbecue. Ivanovsky Noch, or "Night of Ivan, the swimmer" is a very old, pre-Csuppressed folk holiday. It was supressed, if not banned during Soviet time, but has had a recent revival. The idea is that July 6th is about the time when most rivers are warm enough to swim in. People gather by the river and make fires which some young people jump over. Girls put flowered wreaths on their heads and later toss the wreaths into the river. Brave souls jump into the water at midnight for a swim. Even well past midnight there is plenty of twilight for these festivities.
This year we did not go to the river, but had our barbecue on Paschin's veranda. At about 11:30 p.m. Masha and Katya arrived from St. Petersburg where they had completed their last final exam. Even though their clothes were casual, I was amazed at how stylish and beautiful they looked - like rock stars. (Later Katya showed psome new slacks she had purchased. There was still a large tag on them which said in English "BIG SALE") The twins arrival was like a breath of fresh air, bringing new vitality and excitement to our modest celebration. I didn't get to bed until about 2:00 a.m. I got up before 4:30 a.m. to get ready to make it to the train scheduled to depart at 6:00 a.m. It was already quite light outside. The whole family got up as well to say good bye. Katya said that she hadn't even gone to bed all night. A taxi arrived, I said my final farewells, and Sasha went with me to the station. We were early and had time to have a good conversation including his appriasal of the degree of difficulty of Russian authors. I had purchased an old book of Ivan Bunin to try to read on the train. Sasha said that Bunin was a wonderful writer, that each word was just right. He said that he especially loved a short story called Antonovsky Apples. On the train we hugged each other in an emotional farewell. He departed and soon the train pulled out.
I was in a platzcart the open sections of the train (rather than a closed in coupe) in which most Russians travel. I shared the open compartment with a beautiful, stylishly dressed young woman (sorry, I took no photos) perhaps 22 years old, who had visited America two years ago and who spoke English. She told me she is from Borovichi, but now lives in St. Petersburg where she works as a manager in a trade center. She visits her parents in Borovichi once a month. Her name was Diana. She reminded me that Diana was the goddess of hunting. I asked her if she liked to hunt. "Sometimes", she said with a smile. She explained to me how to purchase sheets and a pillow case to make a bed on the bench. I pulled down a rolled up mattress, made the bed and by 7:00 a.m. I was lulled to sleep by the click clack and swaying of the train. When I finally got up we were nearing St. Petersburg. When we arrived Tanya and Svyatoslav were on the platform to greet me. I briefly introduced goddess Diana to them. Tanya said that I attract such beautiful women as honey attracts flies.
After two stops on the metro and a short walk we were home. Russians say, "Travel is good, but home is better" which is the equivalent of "Home, sweet home".
I had a good meal and Svyatoslav helped me download my photos to the computer. Then we heard the terrible news about the terrorist bombings in London in the metro there and I think on busses, although I got few details so far. What perilous and perplexing times we live in! I regard my travels not as an escape from the struggle against tyranny and terrorism, but as a purposful effort to combat these evils with face to face contact with people who have a very different background, culture, and language than me. I completely agree with Rick Steves who has written that travel is one of the main ways of combatting terrorism.
The photos below are in rough chronological order starting from the top.
I eagerly welcome comments from anyone who reads this blog.
Cheezhik Peezhik
Tourists dropping coins on Cheezhik Peeshik, a little bronze bird on the Fontanka River. Residents of the city know a little couplet (which rhymes in Russian):
Cheezhik Peezhik, where have you been
(Cheezhik Peezhik, gday tee bil)
On the Fontanka drinking vodka.
(Na Fontanka vodka pil.)
Venice of the North
Tour boat on the Moyka River with Church on Spilled Blood in the background - June 30, 2005
Relatives
Sasha with his cousin, Nina, and her husband,Sergai - on the veranda in Borovichi, July 4th,
2005
Restored Church
Sasha with attendant in a side room of the newly restored Holy Spirit Church - Borovichi, July 4th, 2005
More Relatives
Sasha with Pasha, Nina (Sasha's cousin), daughter-in-law Julia and young Pasha (center) with his frind
Ivan - Borovichi, July 6th, 2005
Katya
Katya's beauty shines through even the photois a little out of focus - Borovichi, Inanovsky
Noch, July 6th 2005 (notice the twilight
after midnight)
Sunday, July 03, 2005
A Traveling Day
Today is a traveling day. This afternoon at about 2:00 p.m. I will board the train to Borovichi and arrive there about five hours later. This morning I was able to pack all my things into my Rick Steves backpack including my CPAP (continuous positive air pressure – the amazing device that helps me breathe at night due to my sleep apnea), video camera with battery charger, digital camera with battery charger, regular camera, digital album (onto which I can download my digital photos), extra backpack, umbrella, clothes and toiletries. It weighs about 15 kilograms (= 33 pounds). I think even Rick Steves would be impressed with my packing job.
We didn’t do anything very exciting yesterday. Tanya and her mother washed lots of clothes while I added the photos to my blog. In the evening Tanya and I took the metro into the center and strolled around for a couple of hours. We had a fast food dinner at a kiosk that makes big blini (Russian thin pancakes) with many choices for fillers. She had fish and I had grilled chicken. The evening was very sunny and pleasant and once more many people were out on the street. At Gostiniy dvor, the hugh old department store, I bought 40 little pocket calendars of year 2006 with nice pictures of St. Petersburg to give to friends and colleagues.
This will be my last blog entry until July 7th. The home where I will be staying does not have a telephone or inside running water let alone a computer. But I look forward to being there with my friends to enjoy the village atmosphere and to celebrate the 4th of July and, on July 6th, Night of Ivan the Swimmer.
We didn’t do anything very exciting yesterday. Tanya and her mother washed lots of clothes while I added the photos to my blog. In the evening Tanya and I took the metro into the center and strolled around for a couple of hours. We had a fast food dinner at a kiosk that makes big blini (Russian thin pancakes) with many choices for fillers. She had fish and I had grilled chicken. The evening was very sunny and pleasant and once more many people were out on the street. At Gostiniy dvor, the hugh old department store, I bought 40 little pocket calendars of year 2006 with nice pictures of St. Petersburg to give to friends and colleagues.
This will be my last blog entry until July 7th. The home where I will be staying does not have a telephone or inside running water let alone a computer. But I look forward to being there with my friends to enjoy the village atmosphere and to celebrate the 4th of July and, on July 6th, Night of Ivan the Swimmer.
Saturday, July 02, 2005
Friday, July 01, 2005
Half Dome from the air!
Here is my photo of Half Dome and Nevada Falls from the air as we flew over Yosemite on our way to Russia on June 21st. I zoomed in on it as I pressed my camera against the airplane window. Thanks to my talented son-in-law, Svyatoslav Slepnev, I can now add some photos.
Some Duties and a Stroll
Yesterday we decided to relax and get caught up on routine things rather than seeking exotic adventures. So the highlight of our day was getting haircuts. I got a much-needed trim and Tanya had her locks shortened a few millimeters. These non-adventures remind me of a poem I read in the one English book I brought with me: Good Poems, selected by Garrison Keillor. The poem is called “Routine” by Arthur Guiterman:
No matter what we are and who,
Some duties everyone must do:
A Poet puts aside his wreath
To wash his face and brush his teeth,
And even Earls
Must comb their curls,
And even Kings
Have underthings.
This morning I slept until about 10:00. The skies were dark with clouds and the temperature was about 14 C. Nevertheless, all four of us decided to go for a stroll in the city. We visited the Musical Instrument Museum in the Sheremetyevo Palace on the River Fontanka. The Sheremeyev family is one of the oldest and richest in Russia. The international airport in Moscow is named after them. Then we walked along the river to the Summer Garden, a very relaxing place for a stroll along broad paths canopied over with big trees now displaying their full summer greenery. We saw another bridal couple and stopped briefly to admire an artist’s painting. He introduced himself as Vladimir Selantyev. He was kind enough to let me photograph and video his painting. He gave me his mobile phone number and home phone number just in case I was interested in buying his work. He said that he would sell the painting he was just finishing for 2,000 roubles – about $70.
We strolled on at a slow pace set by Tanya’s mother along the River Moyka, by the Church on Spilled Blood (built by Tsar Alexander III to commemorate his father, Alexander II who was assassinated on the site where the church was built). The weather had become warmer as we walked along Griboedova Canal. We stopped briefly on Nevsky Prospect at the place where artists sell their paintings in front of a church and found Vladimir Selantyev’s paintings where the salesman there let me take some photos. Then we took the metro home. Bright sun was shinning when we emerged from the metro station. Tanya and Svyatoslav went off to buy some delicious Russian chocolate (87% chocolate) and I walked Anastasia back to the apartment. It was a very pleasant stroll.
No matter what we are and who,
Some duties everyone must do:
A Poet puts aside his wreath
To wash his face and brush his teeth,
And even Earls
Must comb their curls,
And even Kings
Have underthings.
This morning I slept until about 10:00. The skies were dark with clouds and the temperature was about 14 C. Nevertheless, all four of us decided to go for a stroll in the city. We visited the Musical Instrument Museum in the Sheremetyevo Palace on the River Fontanka. The Sheremeyev family is one of the oldest and richest in Russia. The international airport in Moscow is named after them. Then we walked along the river to the Summer Garden, a very relaxing place for a stroll along broad paths canopied over with big trees now displaying their full summer greenery. We saw another bridal couple and stopped briefly to admire an artist’s painting. He introduced himself as Vladimir Selantyev. He was kind enough to let me photograph and video his painting. He gave me his mobile phone number and home phone number just in case I was interested in buying his work. He said that he would sell the painting he was just finishing for 2,000 roubles – about $70.
We strolled on at a slow pace set by Tanya’s mother along the River Moyka, by the Church on Spilled Blood (built by Tsar Alexander III to commemorate his father, Alexander II who was assassinated on the site where the church was built). The weather had become warmer as we walked along Griboedova Canal. We stopped briefly on Nevsky Prospect at the place where artists sell their paintings in front of a church and found Vladimir Selantyev’s paintings where the salesman there let me take some photos. Then we took the metro home. Bright sun was shinning when we emerged from the metro station. Tanya and Svyatoslav went off to buy some delicious Russian chocolate (87% chocolate) and I walked Anastasia back to the apartment. It was a very pleasant stroll.
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